When Windows are an Appropriate Selection

With the onset of energy-conscious consumerism, there has in turn been the creation of energy-oriented marketing campaigns. One of the most prominent campaigns has been those of window manufacturers and installers, with most of these campaigns focusing on window replacements. There have been varied opinions on whether the replacement of windows is warranted. Ultimately, the numbers prove that unless your windows are extremely leaky or in disrepair the replacement of windows has an extremely long payback. This extended payback makes window replacement one of the last items on a proper energy conservation list of improvements.

However, window installation in new homes takes on a different perspective. Due to windows playing a large part in the energy consumption in a home, they are one of the most important factors to consider when building a home. This may seem counter to the above perspective, but one must consider that when building a new home, one must install windows. The additional cost for improved and more energy-efficient windows are minimal compared to the amount of savings they will produce.

In new energy-efficient construction, window selection should be considered just as important as selecting your HVAC system or site layout. For that reason, it is important for you to understand the different types of windows available.

While there are many different types of windows, and their structure affects how they function, there are basic components common to each one. Besides the type of window, to make a wise decision in selecting windows, one must understand the basic components of a window. These are the frame, glass, spacer (for multiple pane windows), coatings, and gas fill.

Frames
Wood
Vinyl
Aluminum
Glazing
Coatings
Gas Fill
Spacers



Frames
The frame is the material around the glass, and essentially makes the window. The frames can be made from various materials, and the frame material affects the amount of heat the unit can conduct around the glass. There are several different types of frames and they range greatly in price.

Wood
Wood frames have long been considered a sign of quality and performance. There are some issues with wood frames, such as the susceptibility to rot. This has been improved by cladding the exterior with aluminum or vinyl. Overall wood frames are a good selection, especially with the cladding. The U-Factor of the frame is around 0.3 to 0.5. (The lower the U-Factor, the better, when selecting a window)

Vinyl
Vinyl has been a mainstay for cost conscious builders and for this reason come in a wide range of quality. Vinyl is similar in U-Factor as wood and does not have the problem with rotting. However, vinyl does expand and contract greatly, affecting the leakiness of the window; in lower-quality windows, vinyl can degrade with exposure to UV light.

Fiberglass
These frames are stable and energy efficient. The frames can even be filled with foam to increase the efficiency. The U-Factor of fiberglass frames range between 0.2 and 0.3.

Aluminum
 Avoid them! While aluminum windows are available, they should be avoided for new construction.

Glazing
Glazing is simply the glass in the window. Glazing can be found in single, double, or even triple pane. Each additional layer of glass increases the efficiency of the window. To truly take advantage of the window panes, the spacing between panes needs to be at least ½ “.

b>Coatings
The most common coating is Low-E. This works by reducing the amount of infrared energy that enters the home. The coating reflects the energy away from the home. Additional improvements can be made to the coatings by using Heat Mirror technology. This is film adds additional surfaces for Low-E coatings and creates the effect of triple glazing. 

Gas Fill
Gas fill helps reduce the convection heat transfer in the glass. The temperature difference on the glass can create convective flow within the panes of glass. This movement of air and transfer of heat can minimize the benefits of multiple pane glass. By adding heavy gas into the spaces the potential for convective loops are reduced.

Spacers
Spacers are what separate the panes of glass and are often overlooked. There is little that needs to be known about spacers other than when possible select a spacer that has a lower conductivity.

The better the combination of these components the more efficient windows will be. There are even windows being developed that will have R-values close to those of the walls they are placed in.

Install your windows correctly!
There is more to installing windows than just setting the unit into the opening. One must properly seal, flash, and set the window. When installing a window, ensure that you have the window properly set into the opening, the window and opening is flashed to prevent water intrusion, the building wrap is properly installed around the window, and the gap between the window and the rough opening is properly insulated. Having an efficient window does you no good if it is poorly installed!

Basics of an Energy Audit

In this era of energy conservation and sustainability the home energy audit is quickly becoming a common service. What many people don’t realize is that this service has been around for several years but it has just recently come to the attention of the mainstream media. With this new found attention, like many of the sustainable services, the demand for energy audits is increasing at an accelerated pace.

With this increase in demand and as you may be considering using this service yourself it may be beneficial for you to learn a little bit about the basic ideas behind the energy audit. This includes a few terms, the purpose of the audit, the main goals and what knowledge a auditor must have to perform the task.

Two Important Terms

There are two main trains of thought typically considered when discussing energy use. The first of these and the most commonly used terminology is energy efficiency. Energy efficiency is the thought of giving consideration to maximizing the economic benefits of wise energy use. Examples of this would be the purchasing of more energy efficient appliances, CFLs or a higher SEER HVAC system. While this is the more common term these improvements tend to require a larger investment at the beginning.

The second train of thought is energy conservation. Energy conservation is the process of reducing non-renewable energy use and its resulting environmental damage. Conservation includes items such as behavioral changes and improvements that reduce your energy consumption such as insulation upgrades. The improvements in this category will typically have very short payback periods.

When considering recommendations improvements in both of these categories are important. It is the auditor’s responsibility to consider all the improvements and create a comprehensive plan outlining these improvements for the homeowner. In order to do this the auditor must first understand their purpose when performing the audit and the major goals.

The Purpose of an Auditor

When performing the audit an auditor is to objectively perform certain task. These tasks may vary slightly in execution but in the end an auditor should perform all of these items with the possible exception of two. The most important concept of these tasks is that in order to perform them properly the auditor must perform them objectively.

1. Identify the energy consumption in the home.
- This is the main concept of the audit. The auditor is to view the home and determine the primary areas of energy consumption in the home so that recommendations can be made.

2. Note current and potential safety problems.
- An auditor must identify any health or safety issues in the home that they come upon. This is imperative as some problems such as combustion back drafting may be increased with recommended repairs. The auditor must also predict any possible issue that may arise due to performing the recommended improvement.

3. Recommend appropriate measures
- The auditor must formulate recommendations based on their findings and these recommendations should be made according to their payback, return on investment or carbon footprint reduction.

4. Estimate Cost
- Some auditors may help estimate the cost of repairs. While this step may be performed while determining the recommendations an auditor may not chose to supply the actual cost to the homeowner for various reasons.

5. Explain behavioral changes
- This is a key part of an audit. Behavioral changes are some of the most cost effective improvements a homeowner can make. While these may be very hard for an auditor to observe they can make some assumptions and make recommendations off of these.

6. Provide a written record
- An auditor needs to provide a written report of some form to the homeowner so they have a record of what improvements to perform.

7. Quality Assurance
- This is another step that the auditor may not perform. Depending on the wishes of the homeowner an auditor may return to verify repairs were performed properly.

Major Goals of an Audit

There are four major goals of the audit

1. Conserve energy, increase efficiency and save money
2. Reduce the carbon footprint of the home by reducing energy by products
3. Increase comfort in the home
4. Enhance the buildings health and safety

Use a low flow shower head

Low flow shower heads can help you save in two ways. The first is the most obvious in that it reduces the amount of water you use. For everyone on a public water system this reduces not only the cost of the water but the sewer charges as well. This can be beneficial to some people but others on a well may not see a monetary savings in this way.

The other method of savings is one that everyone can receive. This is savings through the reduction in water heating. As you use less hot water for showers you in turn can save in the heating cost of your water.

Many individuals will complain about the reduction of the water flow but several advancements have been made to minimize the perceived difference. This minor difference is certain acceptable considering the new shower head can potential reduce your consumption in half.

How to seal your ducts

Your duct leakage can account for up to 20% of your leakage in your home. This is considerable amount in itself but is even more of a concern when you consider that in most homes the majority of the ducts are located outside of the conditioned space in the attic or crawlspace. The leakage into these spaces is costly and can create unwanted pressure differences in the home.

Locating the Leaks

The first step in eliminating the leaks in your duct work is to find them. This can be done in several ways but some are easier than others.

1. Visual inspection: All steps in finding the leaks will involve this process. You need to visually inspect the ducts to find any visible separations, penetrations or dislocations in the ducts. Some may be obvious while others may be hidden. Look for areas where duck tape may be failing (yes is it duck and no it should not be used to seal duct joints.), at locations where two ducts meet, around the boots in the floor or ceiling and at the trunk line.

2. Duct blaster: You can have a professional perform a duct blaster test on your duct work. This will let you know how much leakage is in the duct work but by itself it does not tell you where the leaks are. You can however have the professional use theatrical smoke to fog your duct work. This will allow you to see where the leaks are as the smoke will exit at the leaks.

3. Panning: Again a professional is needed for this. A professional will use a blower door and a pan to test your ducts to see which ones are leakier. This method can help isolate problem ducts but it does not have the ability to locate the leak itself.

Fixing the leaks

Once you have located the leaks you need to fix them. First you need a few supplies. These are:

1. Mastic- a material used to seal the ducts
2. Cheep paint brush-used to apply the mastic
3. Fiberglass tape-used with the mastic to seal the joints
4. Large zip ties- used to secure the inner and outer layers of the duct work
5. Duct-you may need to replace torn sections.

Duct Joints:

If you have leaks at the joints of the duct work you will need to seal these joints with mastic. This will be where the majority of your leaks are so this is the most common fix. First remove any old tape form the joint and then remove the outer layer of the duct. This is if you have a flex duct. If the inner plastic layer of your ducts is not secure you can use a zip tie to secure the inner duct. Next apply a large helping of mastic to the inner layer of the duct. You can then slip the outer layer back over the duct. Some individuals like to also secure the outer layer as well using the zip ties. You will then mastic the outer layer as well using the same technique you used on the inner layer. Make sure you pull the insulation (outer layer) over any boots or collars.

Disconnected Ducts:

If you have any fallen or disconnected duct work you will reconnect the duct work in the same manner as described in the above step.

Metal ducts:

This covers both the metal supply ducts and trunk lines. You will follow similar steps as in the duct joints section however you will use metal sheet screws to secure the duct if needed. Also you may have some gaps larger than ¼” and will need to use the fiberglass tape along with the mastic.

Torn ducts:

Unfortunately flexible duct work will tear. If this happens you may not be able to repair the duct and will need to replace the whole run or just a section. If you are repairing just a section make sure you use metal joints at both ends of the patch and use the same techniques as in the duct joint section.

Alternative methods:

There are alternative products and methods to sealing your duct work. These include mastic tape and foil tape. Mastic and mastic tape is best used on duct work but foil tape can be used to seal items that need to be routinely opened like your air handler.

There is also an alternative method of sealing that a professional can do. This involves spraying an adhesive/sealant through the duct work. The sealant finds its way into the leaks and seals anything up to a ¼”. This can be a cost effective way to seal the duct work if you have several small holes.

Don’t “crank” your dial on your thermostat.

Moving the temperature setting higher up on your thermostat does not make you home heat up any quicker. If you have a heat pump move your thermostat 2 degrees at a time to help conserve energy. If the thermostat setting is raised greatly the heat pump will use your heating strips to heat the home costing you a lot of money.

How to seal plumbing and electrical penetrations

If you have been following along for the last few weeks chances are you may have already addressed the penetrations that we will talk about this week. Plumbing penetrations, vent fans, chimneys and other major penetrations may be obvious leaks or they may create leaks in other parts of the home and you don’t realize where the source is.

There are two types of leaks direct and indirect.

Direct leaks are leaks that occur directly at the wall penetration. An example of this may be a dryer vent or door.

An Indirect Leak is one in which the leak occurs at one location and the air exits at another. In this situation the air flows through holes and spaces in the wall cavity. An example would be a leak that occurs where a plumbing drain line enters the home but exits at an outlet.

Indirect leaks are one of the most common and problematic because you don’t know where the entry point is. To eliminate this you must seal all openings to the home.

Plumbing and Electrical:

In newer homes most of these penetrations will already be sealed due to code. However some may have been missed and there are a lot of older homes so we will visit how to correct them.

Electrical are the easiest. Using some fire caulk or silicone caulk depending on the situation you just have to locate the holes and put in some caulk. Fire caulk is required by code in new construction where wires or pipes penetrate floors and ceilings. If you have a larger hole you can use foam to seal it but in most cases electrical holes will not be much larger than 3/4”. Most of your penetrations are going to be in the crawlspace, basement or ceiling. Very few will be on exterior walls.

Plumbing penetrations may require a variety of fixes. If the hole is small, like with supply lines, you can caulk but if they are larger will need to use foam or rigid foam board to cover the gap. Foam will usually be fine around drain lines and vent pipes. You may find a large hole under your tub though. In this case you can use rigid foam board to cover the hole and use an adhesive or spray foam to affix it.

Vents and Fans:

If you have vent fans in your bathroom you are likely to have a large leak at this point. Often times the drywall will be cut larger than the fan box. This can be sealed using either spray foam or caulk depending on the size. Hopefully most will only need caulk but if yours needs spray foam (larger than ½”) then be careful because the spray foam may bend the fan housing if the metal is then.

Once you have the ceiling sealed you may need to look at the vent. Newer models will have a damper at the unit so that it closes and creates a seal from the outside when not in use. If yours doesn’t have this or if you still feel a leak you can install a damper in the vent at the end. This is rather easy if you can access the line as it exits the home. The dampers are rather inexpensive but they can help with this pesky leak.

Dryer vents and most other exhaust fans can also have the same problem and you can typically install a damper in them also to help out. If you do this make sure that it is not against building code or manufacturer recommendations.

Seal up your fireplace

Chimneys can be a major point of leakage in a home when the fireplace is not in use. In these situations you can do two things to help reduce this costly necessity. You can install air tight doors to prevent the chimney from drawing air out of the home or you can use a chimney pillow. The pillow is the less expensive fix and relatively easy to install. The pillow is inserted into your chimney and is inflated to seal up the opening. This prevents air from moving through the chimney when not in use. When you want to use the fireplace just pull the cord and remove the pillow.

Sealing Up Your Home

Sealing air leaks in your home can have the quickest payback of all the energy saving repairs that you do! According to the EPA, you can save up to 20% on your heating and cooling bill (10% of your annual utility bills) by sealing and insulating. Most of the work can be performed by a handy homeowner on a Saturday with some caulk, foam, weather stripping, and sweat.

When you look at the air leaks in your home, they break down something like this:

As you can see, the perimeters of your home have the most leaks, and the outlets have the least. To group all these items into a short article would not do them justice, so over the next few weeks I will go over how a homeowner can locate these leaks and correct them.

This week, we will go over some of the basic items that you will need to correct these items; in the energy tip of the week, I'll quickly cover what is, in my opinion, the least important but sometimes the easiest to fix: electrical outlets.

Supplies:

1. Spray foam: This comes in convenient cans that make application, while somewhat messy, rather easy. Dow is the manufacturer of the most commonly seen cans. They make three basic types: big gap, regular, and low expansion. Each of these has its application; the directions on the cans are rather self explanatory, but for sake of being thorough in explaining the uses, I will give a brief synopsis.
Big Gap: This is used to fill large gaps typically over 1 inch.

Regular: This is the basic foam type and will typically be used more than the others. It can be used in most all applications; however, there may be other types better-suited, depending on the use, such as the big gap or low expansion.

Low Expansion: This foam does not expand as much as the others and will typically be used in small gaps, especially around windows and doors. Doors and windows are susceptible to sticking as the foam expands and deforms the frame. It helps to prevent this from happening.

2. Caulk: There are 3 basic kinds of caulk, ranging from silicone, a silicone polymer mix, and latex. I recommend silicone, as it lasts longer and is flexible.

3. Backer Rod: This is an item that is used to fill large gaps for caulking when spray foam will not work. Simply insert and caulk over.

4. Weather Stripping: This will vary by application, with there being several different types. As I'll be going into doors and windows more in-depthm I'll keep this short. Below is a picture of a couple of types:

5. Foam gaskets: There are several gaskets that can help seal around objects in the home. The majority of them come on trim kits, such as fan covers and recessed light trim kits, but you also have items such as the outlet cover gaskets. These do pay a crucial role; other than using this as a lead-in to sealing outlets, it is worth mentioning because many individuals will forget to install the gasket or will tear it in the installation.

Seal your electrical outlets.

As you see the outlets only make up 2% of your total leakage in the home. While this is very small (and I typically recommend these as a last step), they are rather easy to fix - especially if you are building a home.

To stop this leak during construction, there are two steps. One is to seal the penetrations in the walls (which I'll cover later), and the other is to seal the penetrations of the wires into the outlet box. You can also use air-tight gaskets around the box.

If you have an existing home, you can seal the outlets using the gaskets many are familiar with. However, these will only seal around the outlet and not the outlet holes. You will typically need to use the child proof covers to totally prevent air leakage into the home through the outlets.

Covering Your Attic Stairs

One of the most overlooked areas for leakage in your ceiling is your attic access. While “overlooked” should probably more appropriately stated as “homeowners don’t know how to correct,” the outcome is the same. Homeowners live with the attic access being leaky.

Your stairs cover a small area, typically around 8 square feet, but there can be a large amount of leakage around the opening if they don’t fit correctly, and this is 8 square feet of little to no insulation. It's an area that is most typically unconsciously perceived as an uncomfortable area - but most homeowners don’t know why.

Also, most homeowners don’t realize that they can purchase or build an item called a battic cover that will seal and insulate their access stairs. A purchased battic cover typically consists of a cover that can be lifted or unzipped, and possibly insulation. Several companies make these items out of a reflective material that gives the added benefit of a radiant barrier. Typical costs are around $100. Some can be found for less, but they usually don't have insulation included.

You can also make one using rigid foam board. This is relatively inexpensive and easy to work with. The cover should be made so that it sets inside the framing for the stairs and allows for clearance of side hinges and folded stairs when it closes. Insulation can also be added to this to beef up the inherent R-value of the material. If preferred, a homeowner could also add a radiant barrier to the exterior of the surface or construct it out of foil-backed foam board. I usually recommend ½” board, but your stairs may allow for more. This can all be built for around $50 unless you want to add the radiant barrier afterwards.

So how does a homeowner choose which one to do? It depends on you. Both products require some amount of skill, as the purchased cover still has to be installed. However, the built cover is relatively simple to construct and can be done by someone with moderate to little construction skills. Payback can be a big factor in choosing. Payback will vary by location, but for an area of moderate climate, such as central North Carolina (and assuming R-30 insulation is used), you will see a return of about 1 to 3.5 years, depending on what you use to heat your home, gas, or electricity. Current pricing and efficiencies of the various fuels result in a longer payback for heat pumps. If you live in a colder climate, like Maine, then you'll see a payback of 0.5 to 2 years.

Set your thermostat to proper temperatures.

Each degree to lower or raise your thermostat can save you 3% in cost! It's recommended that you set your thermostat to 68 degrees in winter and 78 in the summer. You can increase your savings by getting a programmable thermostat.

What Goes Into Sealing a Crawlspace?

Last week I discussed why to seal a crawlspace, so how about now looking at what goes into properly sealing the space? There are a large number of variations on how a sealed crawlspace is installed; while most just vary by quality, not all of them are proper. A sealed crawlspace is intended to provide 5 things:

1. Moisture management
2. Pest control
3. Combustion safety
4. Fire safety
5. Radon safety

There are a few items that are required to make sure your crawlspace is properly sealed and that you will get all the benefits that are intended:

1. Installation of a vapor barrier with sealed joints on the floor, piers, and foundation walls.
A minimum of a 6-mil vapor barrier should be installed, with all joints sealed via mastic or an approved tape. It is highly recommended that a higher mil plastic be used because the 6 mil will tend to tear and wear easier.

2. Seal all foundation vents.
No vents or openings to the outside should be present, other than an access door. Porch penetrations should also be sealed with an access panel or permanent material.

3. Provide a foundation drain.
A foundation drain is needed with a backflow preventer. It is a good idea to allow the drain to accept moisture from above and below the vapor barrier.

4. Insulate the floor or foundation wall.
Insulating the foundation wall is more efficient, but either the floor or wall is acceptable. Evaluate the situation and choose accordingly.

5. Air seal duct and floor penetrations.
Air sealing the ducts will help improve your home's efficiency, and sealing them and the floor penetrations help prevent air transfer between the home and crawlspace. This also helps with fire safety.

6. Vent appliances to the exterior.
Gas appliances should be direct vented or two-pipe vented in the crawlspace. Most vented spaces do not have enough makeup air for single vent appliances, and a sealed one definitely won’t. Direct venting is recommended.

7. Mechanical Moisture Control
There are several variations on this, including the use of HVAC ducts and dehumidifiers. If an HVAC supply duct is to be used, a backdraft damper is needed and no return ducts. This can affect the efficiency of the system, so check with an HVAC contractor prior to doing it. I tend to recommend a dehumidifier, as it is the least problematic.

Additional Item:
A relative humidity monitor is good addition to help you know that the system is operating properly!

Use CFLs!

This is pretty rudimentary when it comes to energy savings, but there are still a lot of people who are not aren't doing this! Incandescent bulbs convert 90% of their energy to heat and only 10% to light, so they are good heaters but poor light generators. CFLs not only use less energy, but they last longer, too. A 14-watt CFL is equivelent to a 60-watt incandescent. The CFL uses around 75% less energy, and therefore costs 75% less to operate. Also, because the CFL lasts 10x longer, you buy one CFL for every 10 incandescent, which increases your savings. Many will argue that you can't use a CFL everywhere, but they are also becoming more versatile in their uses. So look at your light use and install CFL’s where you can!

How Can Saving Water Save You Money?

Often, many homeowners  - and unfortunately, some energy auditors, as well - overlook the benefits to reducing water consumption in the home. Just like reducing your electrical needs, reducing your water needs can also save you money. The benefits you will receive by reducing your water consumption will vary depending on how you receive your water, but ultimately, there are benefits no matter what the situation!


If you are on a well, you may not see the same, direct monetary benefits as someone who pays for their water. However, there are still benefits, primarily in the form of reduced energy consumption through reduced pump use. If you use less water, you will use less energy. Also, in times of drought, you may be able to make it through without your well going dry, saving you the cost of drilling another well.

There are several areas in the home where you can reduce water use, and some of the reductions are by habit alone. Here are some tips for the water-using rooms of your home:

Kitchen:

• Use the dishwasher instead of hand washing dishes. This may sound counterintuitive, but this does reduce water usage when washing full loads - according to the EPA, as much as 5000 gallons a year!
• Install a low flow aerator on the kitchen sink.

Laundry:

• Wash full loads of clothes only!

Bathroom:

• Get rid of the old high volume toilets. Old toilets used 3.5 gallons or more per flush. These can be replaced with low volume or even dual flush. Don’t want to spend the money to replace the toilet? Look for tank flush valve that converts an existing toilet to a dual flush.
  
• Install an aerator on the bathroom sink.  
• Install a low flow shower head. Old units can use over 4 gpm. Newer units can help reduce flow to 1.5 gpm without sacrificing power and comfort.

Yard:

• Don’t use :"set-and-forget" yard sprinklers. These are the ones that you always set in the yard and leave for hours at a time while you are doing something else. These will overwater the yard and waste your money, not to mention make one section of your yard greener than the rest! Consider automated sprinklers or timers. 
• Use rain or moisture sensors on sprinklers. For those of you who do have automated sprinklers, make sure you have moisture sensors on your units so they don’t come on in the rain or directly after one. Let Mother Nature do her job! 
• Use rain barrels to collect your water for indoor and potted plants.
• Use spot watering or soaker hoses for your gardens. If you’re not watering by hand, use direct watering means for your plants in the garden. These can be either be soaker hoses or drip irrigation directly at the base of the plants, which eliminates unnecessary watering of the soil (which promotes weed growth, anyway).

Set hot water temperature to 120 degrees.

Setting your water temperature over 120 degrees can not only cost you money, but it is also a safety hazard. We do not typically use the full temperature of our hot water, so why pay to heat something up when you are only going to cool it down?

Basics of Mold Testing

Once you have had your home tested by a professional, how do you determine if the results are accurate? Hopefully, you have hired an ethical professional who has the proper training and expertise to perform the testing; just in case, as a homeowner, you should have a little understanding on how to interpret the sample results.

While there are several different types of samples used in the industry - and just as many sampling devices - two kinds of samples are the most common. These are the non-viable air sample and the surface sample.

Non-Viable Air Samples
The non-viable air sample is collected by pulling a known amount of air over a sticky slide. Contents of the air are deposited on the slide. This includes mold spores, insect parts, fibers, and anything else in the air. Some labs report on the other contents of the slide, while some only report on the mold. Several things can be inferred from the additional contents, but to keep this simple, we will concentrate on the mold spores.

The spore counts will be listed in the number of spores of a category, spores per cubic meter of a category, total spores, and total spores per cubic meter. The number of spores is the actual number of spores on the slide, while the spores per cubic meter is derived from a formula based on the amount of air pulled over the slide.

Both findings are important along with the location of the samples. An outdoor control sample should always be taken, and an air sample should never be taken in an unoccupied zone such as an attic or crawlspace. The sample taken from the investigated area is to be compared to the control sample.

There is a lot to interpreting non-viable spore samples, and a homeowner cannot be expected to understand all the aspects of the testing. A lot comes from experience and dealing with a large number of samples. I always recommend that you remember the following and don’t be afraid to ask questions or even another opinion:

1. In most situations, spore counts in the home should be similar to or below the outdoor control;
   
   
2. The type of mold spores in each sample should be similar;
   
   
3. Variations in the samples can occur, but this doesn't necessarily mean there is an abnormality in the home - you must look at the amount and type of spore in the variation;
   
   
4. Just because spore levels in the home are higher than outside does not mean there is a problem - levels must be considered significantly higher to cause alarm;
   
   
5. Actual counts of spores should also be considered - one spore in the sample can read as 13 spores per cubic meter or more, depending on the amount of air passed over the slide when the sample was taken. One spore may not indicate a problem!
   

Surface Samples
I have found surface samples to be one of the most misused samples out there. A surface sample can be used to determine the type of mold present, or if there are a large number of spores on a surface due to cross contamination. However, many people have been using surface samples to indicate abnormal fungal growth. This should not be the case if mold is visible.

A surface sample can be taken using a swab, tape lift, or stick slide. All are proper methods of sampling; the only difference is how you record the area sampled. The area sampled is only in question when quantitative results are desired; in most cases, the samples are qualitative and only used to determine what type of mold is present.

How results are reported vary by lab, but most use a scale, such as "occasional, few, moderate, numerous." Wording and categories may change between labs, but in this case, "occasional" and "few" would be viewed as normal, while "moderate" and "numerous" would be viewed as abnormal. The scale is typically listed at the bottom of the results.

Here are some items to remember when reviewing surface samples:

1. Surface samples do not indicate how much growth is present on a surface, just in the sampled area;
   
   
2. For the most part, surface samples are only for mold identification;
   
   
3. All surfaces may contain some amount of spores, even if everything is normal;
   
   
4. Generally, surface samples should not be used to determine abnormal conditions or remediation protocol.

The final item of this list is the most important, and should be further explained. The best example that can be given is as follows:

There are two walls in the home, Wall A and Wall B. Wall A has one square inch of mold on it that is very dense, and Wall B is fully covered (80 square feet for an 8x 10 wall), but it is not very dense. Two samples are taken from each wall. The results from Wall A come back with "Numerous" spore levels for one genius of mold, where Wall B comes back with "Moderate" and "Few" spore levels for several genera of mold. According to the samples, Wall A has a problem, while Wall B does not. Someone could determine based on the samples that Wall A needs remediation more than Wall B. In actuality, Wall A has had all the mold removed by the sample, while Wall B has a significant problem. The variation comes from the density and area sampled.

This just gives a rudimentary example of why surface samples cannot be used to determine the need for remediation. I see this happening the most in crawlspaces, with recommendations being made over the density of the growth - not the actual coverage area.

With surface samples, only take them for what they can actually tell you. Again, as a homeowner, don’t be afraid to ask questions or get a second opinion!



Install weather stripping.

This may seem like a simple item, but many people forget about it. Check around your windows and doors and see if they are leaking, or if you can see daylight. If so, install weather stripping to seal this up! There are various types, and each one has it use. Ask someone at your local hardware store which one works for your situation or you can research your options online. Also, while door socks can help, many people will remove them in the summer. Just because you are not uncomfortable in the summer with the draft under the door, it's still there and costing you money! If you do this, also remember to pick up a door sweep while you are at the store getting your other weather stripping supplies.

Who Should I Trust? Green Washing in the Marketplace

Over the past few weeks while researching ideas for this blog, I have noticed a trend in the media sources I have consulted. Often times, these sources are online; as we all know, online sources may not always be that reliable! With trends being what they are today, many people turn to the Internet to gather information regarding potential purchases and to educate themselves on topics of interest. As energy efficiency and sustainability are hot topics at the moment, many companies are trying to capitalize on this.

Many companies are trying to market their products as sustainable and energy efficient. However, at times these products are only at most slightly better than a standard product, and in some situations, they might actually be counterproductive to what you are trying to achieve - especially when it comes to saving energy. So what is one to do? Here are just a few recommendations to try and keep your head above water when finding out the facts:

1. Any time a research paper is cited, find that document.
In an attempt to prove my stance on powered attic ventilators (of which I will go more in-depth at a later time, but for now let it be know I am against them), I discovered a disturbing trend among marketing material. Several companies used quotes from a research study conducted by the Bureau of Standards. In this study, the bureau found that the attic ventilators did not create a significant enough reduction in the attic temperature to offset their power usage; however, several companies have cited this research paper as a reason to use their product.

2. Don’t trust a single statement.
This is not meant to imply that you should be skeptical, but consider all arguments! For some products, there are several opinions by very reputable individuals - just because they are different doesn’t necessary make one right or wrong. Products have different properties, and what one individual may consider a poor product another may consider a good choice for their situation. This argument can range anywhere from radiant barriers to concrete countertops, but the best one I can use to prove my point in bamboo flooring. While the majority of the people consider this to a very green product, it may depend on who you listen to. Bamboo is a highly renewable resource, with maturity at 7 years compared to hardwoods at 30+. However, the bamboo is mostly grown in Asia and must be shipped, causing it to have an extremely high embodied energy. Is bamboo sustainable? It all depends on how you look at the big picture.

3. Look at the source.
This ties into the previous two statements and can also be stated as "what makes an expert." There are times in which the various components of the building community disagree with each other. So how do you determine who is the expert in the whole process? Look at the source, determine their experience, and use your own judgment. Just because someone has been building houses all their life, they’ve been to school for 30 years, or they write an article or blog on the Internet doesn’t automatically mean they have all the right answers! I was once told a story about a class that spent an hour lecture listening to the professor explain how the sky was actually orange and not really blue. This class never once questioned the professor because he was perceived as the expert. The next day, the professor quizzed the individuals on the previous lecture and they all failed because they answered that the sky was orange. The professor wanted to prove a point - just because he was perceived as an expert doesn’t necessarily make him right! The class learned an important lesson to use their own minds and never be afraid to question even a perceived authority.



Wash Clothes in Cold Water

This is a simple little tip, but many individuals don’t realize how much heating your water can cost! Clothes don’t necessarily have to be washed in hot water. There are many detergents on the market that work just as well with cold water as they do with hot, and some are becoming specialized for cold wash cycles. As with all recommendations, there are exceptions that require the use of hot water - and I have come across some of these, including the need to reduce certain allergens - but for most laundry cycles, cold water can be used. This alone could potentially save you quite a bit on your utility bills!

When Should I Go Green?

The answer to this question is, AT ANY POINT AND TIME YOU WISH, but you can start today! During a recent home show, I had several conversations with individuals in which the final statement always went something like one of these: “I really want to do some of these repairs, but I don’t have time,” “I want to put in some upgrades and improve my efficiency, but I’m doing a lot of remodeling right now,” and finally, “I’m sure my home is really inefficient, but I really don’t want to know how bad it is!”

If only the individuals who made these statements just took the time to look into energy efficiency and sustainability, they might realize how wrong these statements are! To keep you from making the mistake of believing these statements, let’s look at each one and see how we can really act to correct these problems:

“I want to put in some upgrades and improve my efficiency, but I’m doing a lot of remodeling right now.”
If your walls are open and you are performing repairs, why aren't you at least adding a few efficiency or sustainable features? I always tell my clients that the time to make adjustments is while you're working on your home! For years I worked in insurance restoration, and we always told homeowners that you can turn a bad situation into a good one by making improvements you had always wanted to do. The same goes for any type of work when you are considering sustainable improvements. I understand that when someone is performing a remodel that there can be big cost associated with it, but some items cost little to nothing to perform. Here are five items to consider - and remember there are hundreds more. Just look at your situation and make improvements accordingly.

1. Increase your insulation.
If your walls are open, make sure your insulation is correctly installed, and beef it up a little if possible. This cost: little to nothing more than what it is costing you to replace the insulation, anyway.

2. Caulk joints and seams in the walls.
Make sure you limit the air leakage in your home. Having the walls open is an opportune time to stop leakage, even if it is one or two walls.

3. Donate old materials
Don’t send your old materials to the dump if they are reusable! Someone may have a good home for that old toilet or cabinet.

4. Use low or no VOC paints
Almost all remodels include paint. Make sure you use one that will not emit gas.

5. Consider future use
A lot of individuals look only a few years down the road. Consider what you would need if your family grew or an unfortunate accident caused someone to be handicapped, and make adjustments or plans for the future (i.e. block for handicap bars in the bathroom, increased door sizes to allow for a wheelchair, or make adjustments for a office to be easily turned into a bedroom).

“I really want to do some of the improvements, but I don’t have the time.”
This is a classic excuse, and believe me, I understand how people may feel! However, this is easier than you think. You don’t have to take a lot of time to make these improvements; in fact, many improvements are as simple as changing your habits. Here are five items that you can start today.

1. Use CFL’s
This one is self explanatory, but you would be surprised how many people still don’t do this!

2. Label your appliances with replacement information.
This one plays right into individuals who don’t have a lot of time. Often, when an appliance goes, we don’t have time to find the replacement we want. Take that time now and place a label on the back of the appliance with the replacement model, cost, and place of purchase, with a backup in case that store doesn’t have it. (However, remember you need to update this every so often with new information!)

3. Turn off your ceiling fans when not in the room.
Again, this one is self explanatory, and for those of you who already know me, you won't be surprised at this one!

4. Adjust your thermostat.
Just a small change in temperature on your thermostat can make a big difference in the cost to heat and cool your home. Set the winter temperature to 68 degrees and the summer to 78 degrees.

5. Adjust your freezer/refrigerator temperatures.
Setting the temperatures on your refrigerator can help make it run more efficiently. The refrigerator should be between 36 and 40 degrees and the freezer between 0 and 5 degrees.

“I’m sure my home is really inefficient, but I really don’t want to know how bad it is.”
I have no explanation for this comment. If you thought your HVAC wasn’t running correctly or you had rotted siding, you wouldn’t ignore them and not call professionals just because you were worried how bad it really is. If you don’t have the funds for an expert to assess your home, then educate yourself and look for the deficiencies, but please don’t ignore them! There are plenty of things you can do to improve your home that don’t cost a lot.

Install a Programmable Thermostat

Many people still do not have a programmable thermostat, and some that do still aren't using them to their full potential. According to the EPA, a programmable thermostat can save you $150 a year. Based on current prices, if you can install the thermostat yourself, this give a 6-month payback; if you can’t, the payback will still only be one to two years, which is still great!

If you already have one, then make sure you have it programmed correctly. Have it adjust the temperature while you are out of the home and at night. If you are not doing this, then you are not saving yourself the money that you could be. Many people have them programmed incorrectly because they have different schedules than what their thermostat may have allowed for, such as working Wednesday thru Sunday instead of the standard work week. The thermostats are becoming more flexible, with some allowing for day-to-day changes instead of the week and weekend schedule many people are used to. So, if you have this situation, check into a different model to see if it can work with your schedule.

Infrared Cameras - Can You Really See Through Walls?

Many people have heard of an infrared camera and the wonderful, amazing things that it can do, but have you taken the time to really find out the truth behind the use of one? You may have heard people claim that they can see what is in your walls or if you have mold hidden in your home; while there is some truth to this, these cameras have their limitations and can’t do all that is claimed. At the same time, they can be an extremely powerful tool, and be used in applications that you would have never have imagined!

To start off explaining an infrared camera, you must first understand a little about infrared (IR). William Herschel first discovered IR back in 1800. He used a prism to refract light onto a table. While he was measuring the temperatures of the various colors, he realized that the temperature on a thermometer sitting outside of the red light was higher than that of one inside the light. Upon further study, he concluded that there was energy above the red spectrum, therefore discovering infrared. Over 200 years later, we have now taken this knowledge and created cameras that can be used by individuals to see this energy.

Put simply, IR is the energy emitted by objects based on their temperature. The higher your temperature, the more energy you emit. Everything in the world emits this energy; however, some things emit better than others - and there are also objects in the world that act as reflectors. This is where the limitations of the camera can come into play. First, the cameras are not able to "see through" objects. However, it does show what is in your walls by way of heat on the surface of the wall. For example, the studs heat up or cool down differently than the insulation, which allows us them to show up on camera. If the insulation and the studs are the same temperature, then they can't be seen. Likewise, the camera will now show mold in the wall; however, the camera may be able to show the water that has caused the mold, because the water heats up or cools down differently than the other objects around it. Also, the camera can't see through objects such as windows, or tell the true temperature of shiny metals or other reflective objects. This is because they have a very low emittance and they would rather reflect your energy than emit theirs.

So you may be asking yourself, "If IR can’t be used to see in my walls, what good is it for my house?" Because objects in the home heat and cool at different rates, and they transfer heat differently, the camera can be used to show subtle differences in the temperatures and draw conclusions from that. Below is a simple list of some of the items that can be investigated around the home with an infrared camera:

1. Whether or not there is insulation in the walls.
If enough of a temperature difference between the interior and exterior can be created, it can be seen (200F or greater is optimum.) The insulation, studs, and voids will show up as different colors or shades, and a thermographer can draw conclusions based on this.

2. Whether or not your have air leaks.
When air movement is forced around the home, with as little as a 50F difference the camera can begin to show the temperature differences caused by this air. This can help with finding air leaks around the home.

3. Whether or not you have an effective air barrier.
While you may not know what an air barrier is, having one is important for efficiency! An air barrier stops air movement through insulation, which increases its efficiency. To get a better idea of its benefit, a leak in the air barrier is kind of a leak around your windows, but it is in the wall, and the air may never enter the living space.

4. Whether or not you have water leaks.
Water heats up and cools down at a different rate that most items in the home. Because of this, the camera can detect the temperature differences between the water and the wall or floor.

These are just a few of the items that the thermal camera can be used for around the home. Depending on the applications, the camera may be able to be used to "see" - or really detect - a variety of items. The cameras are being used in everything from building to electrical to medical. There are a variety of uses for this type of camera! If there is something in your home that you can’t see or wonder about, ask a thermographer - because we might just be able to find it for you.

Use Blinds and Shades for Your Windows

Last week, I touched on replacement of windows and how the payback is so long. This week, I will touch on a simple way to help save energy around your windows. Blinds, shades, and drapes can all help conserve energy. By closing your blinds in the summer, you can help reduce the amount of energy gained through solar radiation; by closing your drapes in the winter, you can help retain the heat in your home. Your window dressings were not made just to look good - they do serve a function, so use them! Also, the bug screen is not just for bugs. By using it you can also reduce the solar gain through the windows.

Energy Audits - The What’s and How’s

As a homeowner, you may have heard the term "energy audit" by now, but you may not know what one is or how it works. Many people think an audit is something done by the IRS or given freely by their utility companies. Some even think it's a gimmick made up by “tree loving” individuals. The truth is that an energy audit can be a very useful tool to aid you in saving energy - and ultimately, money!

The complex definition of an energy audit is “an evaluation of the energy flow through a building with the objective of understanding the energy dynamics of the system.” To break this down into simple, understandable terms, an energy audit is just the objective evaluation of a home or building’s energy use.

There are various methods of performing the audit, and even more individuals who are trying to break into the industry. Because of this, you as a homeowner must take time to understand the steps in an audit, learn what you should expect from it, and obtain the knowledge to empower yourself to choose the most qualified professional in your price range. In doing all this, you may even gain enough knowledge to perform a basic audit of the home yourself.

The first bit on knowledge you should obtain is that an energy audit should consist of six primary categories. These categories may have several sub-categories depending on how extensive the audit is but an audit should always have these six main areas of concentration.

The primary areas are:

1. Home Sealing (Building Envelope)
2. Insulation
3. Lighting
4. Appliances and Phantom Loads
5. HVAC (Heating and Air)
6. Occupant habits

As mentioned before, each area may have sub-categories (i.e., "building envelope" will usually include windows and doors, and "appliances" will usually include water usage), but the sub categories will depend on the auditor and the building. The most difficult category for a professional auditor to observe is the occupant’s habits, and this portion of the audit will consist of generalized recommendations. This category, however, is one that you will be able to best analyze yourself, but may not want to admit.

As stated before, a homeowner or building owner can perform an audit themselves. However, an energy audit for a building is more difficult, and it is typically best to hire someone to conduct an audit of a business. If you would like to perform an audit of your home, you first need to gain a little knowledge on the subject. This can be gained through reading books on the subject or visiting Websites. Cut Your Energy Bills Now: 150 Smart Ways to Save Money and Make Your Home More Comfortable & Green by Bruce Harley is a good book to get some how-to knowledge and learn about areas for consideration with an audit. You will not only learn about the areas of the home you need to check out, but also how to perform some of the repairs if you are so inclined to do so. The N.C. Ag Extension Agency’s E-Conservation program is also great for online and local education events. They will hold information sessions and training events periodically. Check with your local extension agent for more information if you live in North Carolina. The DOE Energy Savers Website is also a good resource.

Once you get a little background information, you may want to use a checklist to help with the audit, or you may choose to just look around your house. You can make a small but noticeable impact on your energy usage by performing an audit yourself, but to get an even bigger impact, you may look to a professional auditor. In choosing an auditor you must be careful, because there can be wide range in the quality of the audit. Some individuals provide little more than what you could do in performing an audit yourself. Others provide professional insight into the home and how it functions. Above that, they provide cost-saving tips that may be able to save you the cost of the audit in as little as one year.

As mentioned, a professional audit will vary, but all audits should consist of a blower door test, a visual inspection that covers the 6 main areas, and the results should be generated in a report that makes recommendations based on your return-on-investment or savings-to-investment ratio. For those that may not know, a blower door is a piece of equipment that helps an auditor determine the tightness of a home and where leaks are occurring.

More advanced audits may include thermal imaging of the home using a thermal imaging camera and duct testing. While thermal imaging is a great benefit and it is becoming more commonplace as prices of equipment decrease, this one particular item does not necessarily make an audit better. Duct testing is another item that is not necessary, and often times as far as you will be concerned, the information needed to make a decision regarding the tightness of the ductwork can be determined using certain techniques during the blower door test.

When selecting an auditor, you should remember that one week-long class does not make a good energy auditor! There are several places to start when looking for an energy auditor, and one that many people recommend is the EPA Energy Star program. While being a HERS rater (Energy Star rater) is a good indication of an individual understanding the basics of a building environment, it also does not necessarily mean the individual is qualified to perform an energy audit. The process of certifying a home for Energy Star and performing an energy audit are two very different things, and sometimes you will find a HERS rater will not perform audits.

So how do you find a qualified auditor?

1. Search the Web for auditors in your area, ask neighbors or relatives who may have had an audit, and check trusted resources for certified individuals.As mentioned, HERS certification is a good place to start, but it doesn't end with that! Referrals are a great source of information because you can see the outcome of the audit before you ever have one.

2. Talk with the person who will perform your audit and get some insight into their process.Ask about their qualifications, certifications, audit experience, and general knowledge of the subject. As mentioned, a professional audit should always consist of a blower door, a visual inspection, and the results should be generated in a report that makes recommendations based on your return-on-investment or savings-to-investment ratio.

3. Ask to see a sample report.
You can learn a lot about an auditor from the information a sample report contains. Does this report explain the “whys” of the recommendations? Does the report give an overview of the location of the findings? Does the report give an easy-to-read summary of the recommendations in a usable, cost-conscious and informative format?

4. If the auditor is to use a thermal camera, ask them if they are a Certified Level One Thermographer.This is a good indication if they have a basic knowledge of how the camera works. A thermal camera is a complex piece of equipment, and the information gathered from one can be very useful; however, the individual should have some training on how to use the equipment.

5. Finally, do they also perform repairs?While this is not always problematic, it can sometimes lead to questions regarding an auditor’s objectivity. Ask the individual how they plan to stay objective and ask for references from previous audits.

Overall, an energy audit is a very useful tool in beginning the process of becoming more energy efficient and sustainable. You may choose to perform an audit yourself, or you can hire a professional. If you should hire a professional, take the time to make sure that they understand what they are doing, they have the correct equipment, and they are going to provide you with information that you can use to save money. Finally, take time to educate yourself on the subject, because a smarter homeowner is always a happier one!



Use of Energy Monitors in Your Home

With all the talk about saving energy, I think it is best to introduce two items that I believe a homeowner will find to be very beneficial in saving energy. Both of the items are energy monitors. Neither one of these units will save you energy themselves, but they will make you more aware of your energy use. The first unit is from Blue Line Innovations. I have personal experience with this, and have watched its use change the habits of an individual who didn’t always believe the items I recommended, such as washing clothes with cold water. This unit is easy to install. You simply place the sensor over the power meter and sync up the base unit. After a few minutes of entering the power cost information, the unit will begin to track your energy usage, displaying current usage and total usage. You must reset this every month to keep a monthly tally, and you must replace the batteries in both units every so often - though this can lead to some sync issues, overall this unit will really make you aware of the usage in your home.

The second unit is The Energy Detective, or TED for short. This monitor hooks up to your electrical panel and can track usage from one circuit or the entire house. A homeowner may be slightly intimidated by the way the unit hooks up and may want an electrician to perform the work. I don’t have personal experience with this one, as I am awaiting the release of the 5000 series to make up my mind as to which unit to try, but I can say I have heard great things about it, and the features look really great. Like the Blue Line Innovations model, the unit tracks both real time and monthly usage, but you get additional features if you use your computer. The system can graph usage, showing peaks and valleys to allow a homeowner to see when certain items may be coming on or going off. This information may be more beneficial to an energy auditor, but alas, it is more information to improve your energy habits!

Both units are great additions to any home, as the hardest thing to get a homeowner to correct is their habits. These units make the homeowner aware of their energy usage and can help modify habits. With both units selling for around $120, they are both comparable in price and features, but if a homeowner wants to spring for the additional $45, they can get the footprints software for their 1001 series TED and up the information they get. The TED 5000 series will start at $200, but it appears to be coming with a lot of additional features. Regardless of which unit you may choose, you will find them to be a cost saving purchase as long as you pay attention to them!